Cathy Horyn wrote a review of the Valentino aw09 couture show, and she was brutal, but honest. The collection was beautiful, but we've seen it...
In contrast to the scene around the show, the clothes produced absolutely no emotion. They were dead on arrival, starting with the first red coat. Much work went into that sun ray draping, but the effect seemed wooden, lifeless. These clothes were designed to please Valentino, to reflect his legacy and archive, and for the most part they were just that — imitations. If the new designers thought for themselves what the Valentino story meant in contemporary terms, it was not evident. Frankly, I kept thinking, Valentino could do most of this stuff himself — he already has — so why not let him? And while the new designers are obviously using the Valentino workrooms, their clothes were heavy clunkers compared to Valentino’s collections. How do you get from the superb show he did in Rome in July 2007 to this empty collection?
Sure, the new designers kept the template, but something happens when a designer retires: the audience expects to see a new beginning. If I were the Permira guys, I’d be worried if all I heard was how fabulous and “very Valentino” the show was. What is it going to look like next season and the one after that? It’s going to look exactly the same. Nothing is going to change. And that’s the kiss of death in fashion. I’m a little surprised that Giammetti and Valentino are letting their egos get in the way and are supporting this approach. They’re smart guys. But I can’t think of one label that has survived by repeating itself. Look at what Tom Ford did at Gucci, Lagerfeld at Chanel, Galliano at Dior — they all set off a little bomb and started over with the bits that interested them. Not the whole thing. And a new audience found them. Maybe Chiuri and Piccioli will loosen up. Maybe they will think for themselves and not like respectful students in the school of Valentino. And maybe the don will finally let go.
Sure, the new designers kept the template, but something happens when a designer retires: the audience expects to see a new beginning. If I were the Permira guys, I’d be worried if all I heard was how fabulous and “very Valentino” the show was. What is it going to look like next season and the one after that? It’s going to look exactly the same. Nothing is going to change. And that’s the kiss of death in fashion. I’m a little surprised that Giammetti and Valentino are letting their egos get in the way and are supporting this approach. They’re smart guys. But I can’t think of one label that has survived by repeating itself. Look at what Tom Ford did at Gucci, Lagerfeld at Chanel, Galliano at Dior — they all set off a little bomb and started over with the bits that interested them. Not the whole thing. And a new audience found them. Maybe Chiuri and Piccioli will loosen up. Maybe they will think for themselves and not like respectful students in the school of Valentino. And maybe the don will finally let go.
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